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Probably my least favorite question because there are way too many factors for any breeder to emphatically tell you what your pup will weigh when they are mature.
We try to keep our dogs between the 10-13 lb range. HOWEVER, Bone, structure, size, and how much your dog weighs has more factors than just "what did the parents weigh".
A one
Probably my least favorite question because there are way too many factors for any breeder to emphatically tell you what your pup will weigh when they are mature.
We try to keep our dogs between the 10-13 lb range. HOWEVER, Bone, structure, size, and how much your dog weighs has more factors than just "what did the parents weigh".
A one year old dog and a 5 year old dog may have the same bone structure, but the older dog will almost always weigh more than the 12 lbs. Just like us, as dogs age they typically get more "padding" and will weigh more than 12 lbs. I've seen dogs with the bone structure of a mini weigh over 20 lbs just due their lifestyle.
The weight we use is what the dog weighed at 12-18 months of age range which is when they are thru growing their frame and before they have a chance to pack on any extra weight.
Also, some dogs can carry a "standard" gene that kicks in and one pup in the litter will go over 15 lbs. I have found this is more common in show dogs. As the standard dachshunds typically have better conformation, they are crossed on minis. This does not produce a litter of pups the average size of the parents. This creates some standard pups and some mini pups. They will put the mini version in their program, but whenever breeding show lines of two definite minis, there is always the possibility that a resulting pup will be standard.
I say all that, but stick to my original statement, we do everything to try to raise dogs in the 10-13 lb range.
For the trip Home
Bring poo bags, wipes, hand towels and if you do not have someone to hold the puppy, bring a small crate. If traveling more than 4 hours, get regular Dramamine to help puppy with motion sickness and also to help calm them. You won't need food or water unless you have a long trip home. They do not need to eat while tra
For the trip Home
Bring poo bags, wipes, hand towels and if you do not have someone to hold the puppy, bring a small crate. If traveling more than 4 hours, get regular Dramamine to help puppy with motion sickness and also to help calm them. You won't need food or water unless you have a long trip home. They do not need to eat while traveling.
At home:
Food
We use Life's Abundance Puppy. LADogFood.com
Get one bag of the puppy, and then switch to the All Stages.
Wormer
Tractor Supply or Chewy carry liquid wormer. Doesn't matter which brand. Wormer may say dog wormer, but all that is important is that you get the liquid version. Also get a 3 cc syringe to help give the correct dosage easier.
Puppies will need to be wormed weekly during the warmer months. and every 2 weeks during the cooler months. Continue this schedule they are on their shot schedule.
Probiotics
We suggest ProBios. Get the tube of paste for puppy, and then switch to the small bite when they get older.
Short answer is "NO". We do not allow the public on the facilities. Clients only are given access. (My Doberman will stop anyone who tries, and our security camera footage will be turned over to police if needed.)
Breeders are constantly under attack by anti-animal ownership organizations. We can't afford to have one of THOSE people
Short answer is "NO". We do not allow the public on the facilities. Clients only are given access. (My Doberman will stop anyone who tries, and our security camera footage will be turned over to police if needed.)
Breeders are constantly under attack by anti-animal ownership organizations. We can't afford to have one of THOSE people come here and do a lot of harm to our animals.
But the more concerning reason is the diseases that a "visitor" can bring. I never know how many other facilities they visited that same day and what they picked up on their clothes/shoes. So no, it is my job to keep these puppies safe. There are pictures and videos. It is different when you pick up your puppy because you touch and leave with it. Plus we do this transaction on my front porch that I can easily clean. If you touch a puppy, and then it goes back to the nursery, the results could be catastrophic!
I would like to say "Yes", but most of our pups are sold before they are 6 weeks of age and by time they are being picked up at 8 weeks old, they just are not available for sale any more. We provide videos of the litters that are typically more than enough for you to decide.
If you bought "FIRST PICK", we still like for you to use the v
I would like to say "Yes", but most of our pups are sold before they are 6 weeks of age and by time they are being picked up at 8 weeks old, they just are not available for sale any more. We provide videos of the litters that are typically more than enough for you to decide.
If you bought "FIRST PICK", we still like for you to use the videos to determine which pup you want. We can also help guide you based on what you are looking for. (Size, temperament, etc.)
Now, you would think we would not get this question, but we still do. Obviously the answer is "No". If you are unable to get your pup at the time of pickup, You can ask to hold the deposit for a different litter. Meaning, when you are ready to get a puppy, the deposit can be applied toward a puppy you purchase from us in the future
Now, you would think we would not get this question, but we still do. Obviously the answer is "No". If you are unable to get your pup at the time of pickup, You can ask to hold the deposit for a different litter. Meaning, when you are ready to get a puppy, the deposit can be applied toward a puppy you purchase from us in the future.
Note: If you placed a Waiting List Deposit, but never picked an actual pup out, then that deposit is refundable.
All pups comes with their complete Health Records with proof of vaccinations, they will be microchipped, and they come with a Lifetime Genetic Health Guarantee.
No. There are 2 reasons why.
#1 - People lie. No one is going to write on their application that they are going to do something bad to the dog. If they think you won't approve them, then everyone turns into the perfect candidate. And most vets have no idea what really goes on at someone's facility so even that isn't accurate.
#2
No. There are 2 reasons why.
#1 - People lie. No one is going to write on their application that they are going to do something bad to the dog. If they think you won't approve them, then everyone turns into the perfect candidate. And most vets have no idea what really goes on at someone's facility so even that isn't accurate.
#2 - I am not here to judge. I am here to help! If someone wants to be a breeder, I would rather they tell me all about their situation so I can help guide them so they have the best possible experience in the business. It is a tough business and we all need to work together because there are more than enough people out there trying to bring breeders grief.
Prices are changed periodically due to supply & demand.
It is set based on what the average price is for that specific color/sex/quality.
Our unpatterned male pups are actually cheaper than what most charge to ensure everyone has a chance at a reasonably priced pup, but don't expect that price for a patterned or dilute pup.
If any pu
Prices are changed periodically due to supply & demand.
It is set based on what the average price is for that specific color/sex/quality.
Our unpatterned male pups are actually cheaper than what most charge to ensure everyone has a chance at a reasonably priced pup, but don't expect that price for a patterned or dilute pup.
If any puppy is still available once they reach 12 weeks of age, the price may drop for that pup.
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